Who knows where the history of a place
begins. Somewhere back in time
just this side of the things we
remember, the stories, the facts, the
legends. So it is with the history of
Warm Springs Lodge in the Blue
Mountains of Perry County,
Pennsylvania. Often to find out about
a place, we look at the names, the
owners, the historical records, but
for the beauty of this place, there
are other, better paths with which to
begin. And so we start along a trail,
The Allegheny Pathway that runs from
Harrisburg to Pittsburgh. An old
Indian route. Soon, we come to a
stream and follow it to a valley
narrowly nestled between two wooded
ridges, Quaker Hill and Pasgah Hill,
in Central Pennsylvania. And along
this tributary to the Susquehanna,
Sherman's Creek, are six warm springs.
Near the largest of the springs is
Warm Springs Lodge, a stately old
building dating back to just after the
Civil War when it was rebuilt after
being destroyed by fire.
It is the geography of the land,
the setting that first catches our
eye. The rolling foothills of the
Appalachian Mountains, the watershed
of streams, the lush vegetation, the
nearby dairy farms, the Amish, and the
small homesteads with orchards, corn,
and flowers. Off the beaten track, and
you're in the past. Ancient, virgin
hemlocks, the sprawling boxwood
huckleberry-Gaylussacia brachycera,
the oldest living plant in the United
States, tracing its childhood back to
at least 1500 BC . Fields of
arrowheads, ghosts of Indians, and the
countless fossils and trilobites,
those marine arthropods that used to
molt in the nearby rocks, leaving a
few offspring like the crayfish in the
streams.
It would
be easy to go on forever about
the flora and the fauna, the wonderful
green watercress in the springs by the
Lodge, the two huge tulip trees that
are the guardians of the springs,
hovering behind it like wise sagamores
from a time past remembrance. There
are hickory trees, black walnut, grand
sycamores with the bark peeling into
scrolls of white and tan parchment,
the woods and nearby hills aflame with
oak and maple trees in Autumn. Yes, it
is hard not to mention the wildlife,
the raccoons that come down to the
stream, the deer, the hints of beaver
and mink, possums, squirrels, and
rabbits. And because the springs never
freeze, egrets frequent the area, and
blue and green herons. Owls, eagles,
bluebirds, pileated woodpeckers,
tangers, orioles, finches, and wood
ducks. Even an occasional phoenix has
been sighted, making the valley truly
an Audubon paradise.
For the
fisherman? Well, there are
pickerel in the reeds and wild water
lilies, bass abundant in the deeper
holes, fallfish, bluegills, and
rockies. Just upstream, brown and
rainbow trout. For the more
adventurous, an eel or hellbender to
let us know that they're still here
and plan on sticking around for a long
time.
The Lodge,
itself, resting on a small hill
overlooking the peaceful and
expansive green lawn, the stream, and
the moon riding the ridge across the
southern sky, often speculates on its
own past. It looks out from the
veranda over all of this, dreaming for
an evening in its rocking chair or
hammock, remembering the human history
that has made it what is is.
How it was
the spring that first brought
people here. Coming from Harrisburg, a
half-hour to the east, or from
Carlisle, twelve miles over the
mountain to the south. From Blain,
from Newport. Not to forget the
frontiersmen who lived in the county,
the squatters along the creeks, and
the Indians. And how with time, when
the curative properties of the water
in the springs became more widely
known, how the people started coming
in from as far away as Washington,
D.C., Philadelphia, Baltimore, and
Boston. And still do. With such a
beautiful setting, all that was needed
was a place to stay, to lodge in, but
a place equally pleasing, to match, to
blend in with the mountains.
Though the
tract of land where the Warm Springs
are located was first warranted to
Soloman Dentler in 1793, it wasn't
until 1830, ten years after Perry and
Cumberland County were divided, that
James Kennedy purchased the ground and
built a bath house. Then John Hipple,
the sheriff, leased the land from
Kennedy for a ten-year period, and he
erected a building 40 by 45 feet in
size, and put in additional
bathhouses. These times were
interesting, the breaki8ng of ground,
the first foundations. The place soon
opened as a health resort. People from
the nearby farmhouses and the big
cities came to take the cure, to bathe
in the water, and to drink it.
By
1838, Peter Updegraffe had
added a small pottery that turned a
thriving business. Stagecoaches
arrived on the hill behind the Lodge.
Then in 1849, H. H. Etter bought all
the grounds and added a seventy-five
foot extension to the original
building. Around the time of the Civil
War, the property had passed the R. M.
Henderson and John Hayes of Carlisle,
who in turn sold it to the Perry Warm
Springy Hotel Company. There were more
improvements and the hotel flourished
until the end of the century when the
big seaside and mountain resorts were
developed. The Warm Springs, without a
railroad nearby, managed to escape all
the hustle and the ill-conceived
changes of the early industrial era.
The human traffic died down, there
were financial setbacks, but the Lodge
and the area around it were saved by
neglect.
During all
this time, however, there were
some exciting moments, Indians camped
on the grounds as late as 1880. Even
before this, for instance, there was
the duel. Sometime shortly before the
Civil War, two gentlemen in love with
the same woman met up at the Lodge.
The lady was about. There was a
ruckus, a challenge. Swords were
chosen over pistols, and the following
morning just as the sun was coming
over Pisgah Hill, the men and their
seconds once again met. One killed the
other and two weeks later the survivor
was killed in the streets of
Baltimore. The Pennsylvania
legislature was aghast. Soon
thereafter, it passed a law
prohibiting duels. Another honorable
and sane tradition cut short by good
intentions.
Then there
was the fire that destroyed
the main building shortly after 1865.
The place was abandoned, but Christian
Thudium rebuilt it, and in 1867,
Abraham Bower of Landisburg bought it.
In 1871 it was once again open to the
public, this time without liquor. The
alcoholic spirits to this day rebel
against such hard times, and it is
rumored that sometimes early in the
morning the innkeeper finds a
partially filled wineglass or mug of
applejack on the table in the
basement.
However,
teetotaler that he was, Mr.
Bower had improved things. By 1897 he
was marketing the water from the
spring as a beverage and for medicinal
purposes under the name of Abraham
Bower and Sons, with office in
Philadelphia, Harrisburg, and Boston.
It was bottled and sold around the
world. The properties of the water
were well known. As early as 1850, a
Dr. Booth of Philadelphia had found by
chemical analysis that it contained
carbonate of lime, carbonate of
magnesia, carbonate of iron, alkaline
salts, and chiefly chlorides with
portions of sulfate and silica. It was
said to be a good purgative and
diuretic, helpful or rheumatism,
kidney and liver complaints,
dyspepsia, gout, Bright's disease
(diabetes), eczema, sore eyes and
general weaknesses of constitution.
Feeling tepid in winter and cool in
summer, the 66 degree F waters are
thought to come from two miles beneath
the earth's surface, heated by the
natural heatflow of the earth's
interior. No wonder the springs bathe
both the body and soul.
The clear
water and the beautiful Lodge
brought in the folks. Yes, those were
the days. A railway was planned, the
People's Freight Railroad Company, and
was never finished. The old bed can be
seen in the woods downstream near a
poet's small cabin. The Warm Springs
was at the height of popularity in the
gay nineties. The well to do from the
big eastern cities fell in love with
the quiet spa hidden away in the
mountains of Pennsylvania. They came
by stagecoach, on horseback, or by
foot from the nearest towns to canoe
in the streams, bathe in the
life-giving waters, picnic and walk in
the woods. Up on the hill back of the
Lodge was the first outdoor bowling
alley in Pennsylvania. There were
wonderful parties in the big hotel,
dancing and coquetry. Parasols, tall
hats, fetching gown, bonnets and lace.
The romance even mad the local papers
sometimes.
But with
the coming of hard times and World War
I, the Lodge gradually slipped
into disuse. Gossip has it that the
spirits avenged themselves, that there
were private festivities, that, the
Gods forbid, a bordello might have
been in operation. If only we could
read the mind of the fellow there on
the porch looking out over green grass
and the water, remembering it all.
In the
1920's H. B. Rhinesmith, the
proprietor of the Hotel Rhinesmith,
owned the Warm Springs property in New
Bloomfield. The Gring family also
owned the Lodge for awhile. But there
were no new developments or
improvements. Things were at a
standstill. Then in 1968, Lloyd and
Dorcas Hetrick bought the property,
restoring many of its features,
rebuilding the roofed front porch,
fixing up the quaint bedrooms, adding
a lovely foyer, and updating some of
the bath facilities.
Their son,
Alan Hetrick, who took over
the property in 1979, continues the
fine traditions begun by his family.
There is now a small stage, dance
floor and piano. Meals are served
family style with a wonderful salad
bar furnished in season with fresh
vegetables and fruits from neighboring
farms and orchards. Homemade bread and
desserts are a specialty. In addition,
there is overnight lodging,
bed-and-breakfast, and gourmet food
cooked to order. The Lodge has
wonderful grounds and indoor space for
weddings reunions, conferences,
luncheons, picnics and retreats. The
service is individual and warm, the
atmosphere and hospitality savoring of
the best from the past, and full of
vitality of the present innkeeper and
chef, Alan Hetrick.
Stop by
and enjoy, but be sure to make
reservations first, reservations with
the history and charm of a beautiful
inn hidden along a country road in the
foothills of Pennsylvania.